Paese Ristorante - King St.

The Theatre District can be a tough sell. Every restaurant is out for your business. But can they deliver? Does quality really count when it comes down to crunch time? Paese may not be inexpensive, but why pretend to be something you're not? With so many options, it's nice to find the place that's not trying to drag you in by the scruff of the neck with some young, come-hither-girl parked at the door. I like this, and coming from veteran restaurateur, Tony Losciavo, not a surprise.

Cool interior, rich teak, 70s modern and a great sound system playing music you can actually talk over is the first plus about Paese. The menu is Italian, of course, with a name like this, but interesting Italian food. While waiting for a late date, I go ahead and order the Grilled Octopus ($13). The presentation is Mediterranean modern, with lemon aioli, deep fried capers that look like little flower bursts, a drizzle of piquant oil and the most perfect octopus I've had rests on slightly charred escarole, with a scattering of mint. A glass of Megalomaniac Riesling ($11) from Niagara turns this dish into local gold. I comment on how tender it is and the barman leans over and says, "It's been brined to make it tender." Nice.

Yes, there's pizza on the lunch menu, but it's that antipasto that inspires me to get off the typical lunch track. Guest in tow, we decide to share two pasta dishes and one entree. The pastas, all house made, are in half orders, thanks to our server who lets us know that we can do this. (We would have just had pasta and one entree.) Gnocchi with slivers of chicken, sweet peas and a lush, mascarpone cheese float over the little poufs like a dream ($10). The Orrechiette ($11) are more rustic summer, with little sweet heirloom tomatoes and lemon-mint olive oil dressing them.

Chicken, Saltimboca ($23) is my preference over veal and nice to see as I've been having a craving for this. Almost roulade style, the chicken is wrapped with prosciutto and instead of cheese, a light sage stuffing is inside. A swoosh of creamy buttermilk mash and luscious chicken jus complete my craving. After our three starters, this is more than enough to share. Drag me in any time, Tony.

Price: Dinner for 2 with wine: $75-$100
Atmosphere: Casual, Class
Wheelchair Access: No
Surprise, Surprise: You can hear yourself talk! Laid back jazzy music soothes.

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