Brassaii

The sign for Brassaii is very low key. The walk down the lane off King Street West to get inside is lovely. The dramatic height of the entrance door signals more inside, thanks to the Design Agency, led by Anwar Mekhayech, Matt Davis and Allen Chan. From industrial chic to ultra modern, this locale has it all. Massive Egyptian doors, Canadian art and design installations...you name it.

The lounge has massive spool style tables in alcoves of this former industrial space. Busy, happy hosts buzz around. Servers are dramatic in black or suited up in brilliant colours like one Andy Warhol look-a-like. The bar fronts the dining area, which is a sea of shimmering tables. Just opposite is the kitchen, manned by Chef Bruce Wood, formerly of Centro and several other top notch eateries. It's happening here.

Tuna tartar ($15) sounds like the perfect bite with a glass of prosecco. It is. Five white porcelain spoons have delicate mouthfuls ready and waiting. Duck prosciutto ($15), recommended by manager Vincenzo Antonacci, is melt-in- your-mouth fabulous, with little dabs of fluffy Mascarpone cheese and balsamic-fig chutney as complements to the cured flesh. We opt for two more appetizers, the soup of the day ($9) and Dungeness crab cakes ($17). The crab, while beautifully presented, could use a little zing of flavour. The fuji apple slaw adds a nice light touch but I can't taste the promised curry aioli. Pricey for three little bites without the wow factor it should have...

Ostrich ($29) is different, atop risotto style barley with gooseberry chutney and foie gras jus. Texturally interesting, and flavours complement but the bird's a little chewy. Spaghettini with Kobe meatballs ($20) is very reasonable. Intensely flavourful Roma tomato sauce is perfection. Tasty, tiny little meatballs are just right.

The limestone, glass and formed steel bar divide the lounge from the dining area, and act as the hub before entrance to another lounge and private dining area. Manager Vincenzo mentions that tableside bottle service includes mixology right on the spot. How cool is that?

Brassaii is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, continuing into the wee hours for their lounge and sophisticated patio. Sounds like you can make a day of it here...

Price: Expensive
Atmosphere: Inviting vibe
Surprise,Surprise: Most women wear stilettos here!
Hint: The duck shouldn't be missed.

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